Long Island Restaurants

Mediterranean Snack Bar

On any given Friday or Saturday night in Huntington, a line wends out the door of Mediterranean Snack Bar, a modest-looking, madly popular Greek restaurant that's been a fixture in the village for the past couple of decades. Why, over all this time, do people brave the wind, cold, heat and rain in order to get a seat?

Sometimes, the answer to that question comes as easily as the pleasure inherent in the smooth, salty luxurious taramasalata (fish roe dip) or the delighfully garlicky hummus. Other times, like the days when the pita is stale and the spinach pie burnt to ebony, you find yourself at a loss to comprehend the restaurant's magnetism.

Pastitsio (the Greek version of lasagna) and moussaka (the traditional layered eggplant, lamb and potato dish) excel, but they're served with overcooked gray peas that only detract. Seafood is fresh,but often overcooked.

For dessert, you'll love the phyllo-encased galacktoboureko (vanilla custard) served in hefty wedges.

Worth the wait? On some days, go figure. On others, most definitely.

Joan Reminick

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