Long Island Restaurants

Dodici

At first sight, Dodici wins you over with its good looks: graceful columns, Michelangelo prints, vaulted ceilings. Blame those ceilings, however, for the reverberating din that fills the room. Yet the inability to carry on a quiet conversation doesn't phase the large and loyal clientele drawn to Dodici by more than its physical beauty.

They come for the food, which is Italian, colorful, imaginative, and plated with artistry and a generous hand. Pizzas are crisp-crusted with bright, fresh toppings. Salads sparkle. On a warm day, the tritolina d'estate - a chopped salad with grilled vegetables and chicken in a fragrant lemon and olive oil dressing - is a citric delight. Pastas excel. Try the house-made ravioli della nonna, the light al dente pillows stuffed with a savory mixture of spinach, herbs and ricotta, topped with a spirited marinara and fresh mozzarella cheese.

Desserts, most from an outside bakery, are more decorative than divine. But the espresso transports you to Rome.

Unless you have six or more in your party, forget about making reservations. You'd do best to come early or on a weeknight. Even then, you can expect lots of noisy company. Dodici is nobody's secret.

Joan Reminick

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Wheelchair Access