Long Island Restaurants

Almond

Eric Lemonides is one restaurateur who loves his work. You'll find him loping about the dining room of his French bistro in Bridgehampton, kibitzing with diners, entertaining children. Unlike many Hamptons hot spots, Almond, a bar and bistro, welcomes families. And singles. And couples. In the main dining room, with its butter-yellow sponge-painted walls and expanse of windows, you'll find a cross-section of generations and lifestyles. The darker bar, more of a "scene" area, is where the hipsters hang.

A salad of endive, pears, Roquefort cheese and candied walnuts is a refreshing beginning. Even better is a traditional French salad of frise with lardons (cubes of bacon) and a poached egg. An appetizer of "short ribs and onions, two ways" features the meat gently stewed, served hot, and also cold in a little terrine. Macaroni and cheese, listed as a side dish, is grand, made with penne and Gruyere instead of elbows and Cheddar.

Steak frites, served with roasted shallots and marrow, is sliced, causing it to lose both its juices and its heat. Order yours whole. Or try the old-fashioned roast chicken, crisp on the outside, juicy and savory within, plated with "crushed" potatoes and spinach. An unusual spring vegetable "bouillabaisse," dolloped with a garlicky red pepper rouille, optimizes perfect local produce.

This is a bistro where you can get a super hamburger. Accompanying French fries are thin, crisp, just salty enough. A pressed roast pork sandwich with mustard and gherkins is a hearty treat.

For dessert, the chocolate pot de creme with almonds is silky and deeply chocolaty. A blackberry shortcake, made with plump, perfect berries and a country-style pound cake, is wonderful. And I love the tarte au citron, very tart, very French.

Reserve ahead. And don't hesitate to invite the kids and the grandparents.

-Joan Reminick. Staff Writer
. Reviewed 06-29-2001