Long Island Restaurants

The Argyle Grill & Tavern

The Argyle Grill & Tavern doesn't take reservations. The result leads to many.

Saturday night can be chaotic and very long at the popular establishment, where contemporary American food is washed down with good wine and cold beer.

But, as if to underscore the besieged quality of the joint, iciness extends to the Guinness Stout as well as the Coors Light. And these days, you may feel chilly waiting outside, too. Standing in the entry area or at the bar on a busy night is a noisy, smoky experience that clearly has its devotees.

An hour is typical of the prime-time timetable, which gives you an opportunity to windowshop, consider an alternative or watch TV. It also may make you wonder whether the Marx Brothers School of Management conducts off-campus classes here.

Mood swings among the staff can upend the evening. One time, you'd have thought the would-be maitresse d's main job was concocting excuses for empty tables while the wait went on. It was merely kitchen overload.

When you are seated, the situation may vary dramatically. The tables parallel to the handsome, high-ceilinged bar frankly can't be recommended for any activity other than a quick puff-and-drink. Those in the full, back room, with its big mirrors and eye-catching artwork, signal a considerable improvement.

You'll have to order carefully here. When you do, a good meal is likely. If the kitchen were just a bit more consistent, Argyle would have a one-star rating for its combo of exalted bar food and more ambitious fare.

The "seafood martini" is a very tasty shrimp-and-crab cocktail, served in the expected glass. The shrimp spring roll has crunch, some whimsy and emphasizes the first half of sweet and sour.

Buffalo-style chicken wings are meaty and well-spiced, with the obligatory blue cheese dressing, celery and carrots. The chicken quesadilla, however, is a husky mishmash: peppers, onions, three cheeses, black beans, guacamole, sour cream.

A special of corn chowder is modest and all right. It's much better than what's dubbed Babylon clam chowder: pasty, dense, a trap for shellfish.

Salads are sensible appetizers. The spinach salad, with goat cheese and a sweetish maple-pecan vinaigrette, is appetizing. So's the tricolor salad. But the Caesar needs more bite than the croutons and Parmesan provide.

Argyle's selections emphasize steaks and seafood. The filet mignon is very tender. But the roasted garlic that accompanies it is sawdust dry, and the "smashed" potatoes lukewarm.

The porterhouse is chewy and overcooked, paired with onions more limp than crisp, and more of those too-cool spuds. Better than the beef is the double-cut pork chop, at least 2 inches high and shiny with a bourbon glaze. Ask for it slightly pink.

Chilean sea bass, the fish of the moment, gets a light, macadamia-nut crust and is among the top entrees. Mahi-mahi boasts a gingery barbecue glaze and also deserves your attention. The competition is from grilled big-eye tuna with watercress slaw.

Avoid the chicken potpie, which is like cream of chicken soup ladled into a hollowed-out loaf of bread. It makes the standard list of chicken-breast preparations appear very attractive.

For more casual dining, the selections include the bacon cheeseburger, marinated rib-eye steak sandwich or marinated grilled chicken sandwich.

Desserts have a forlorn expression as they're displayed on a platter brought to each table. The chocolate bread pudding is defined by pastiness and the pumpkin pie separates quickly from the crust. The carrot cake and the apple-caramel number have more appeal.

So would The Argyle if they could streamline the menu. The staff is more relaxed as the evening goes on. You just have to be here at the right day and time.

Maybe they'll accept reservations.

-- Peter M. Gianotti

Hours

Cuisine

Directions

Major Credit Cards Accepted

Price

Rating

Wheelchair Access