Long Island Restaurants

Chas. Rothmann's Steakhouse

At Rothmann's Steakhouse, everything new is old again. This is the rebirth of the Rothmann's name, finally at a restaurant that deserves to carry it. Rothmann's started here in 1907, as the signs and business card proudly proclaim.

But the corner of Routes 25A and 106 has had several other occupants over the decades, including Burt Bacharach's. And most of the eateries did make you want to say a little prayer and then walk on by.

Now, the joint is handsomely rebuilt, the steaks are terrific and the rooms are packed.

You could stick around the big bar toward the entrance, and enjoy shellfish, sports on overhead TVs and the warmth of the fireplace where wood never burns. A portrait of Teddy Roosevelt oversees the festivities.

The main dining room is a large, good-looking space, with dark wood, earth tones, and wine racks and cases strategically positioned for effect. But given how fast the carts wheel around here, these appointments could do double-duty as speed bumps. Other dining areas are cozier, especially the library-style spot at the east end.

You'll do well to start with any of the shellfish cocktails, lobster, shrimp or crab. They're all straightforward, glistening and first-rate.

The crab cakes are hefty and meaty, too, worth sampling either as an appetizer or an entree. The zesty sesame-crusted tuna that's billed as a first course is sizable enough for lunch. It's a tuna steak, with an Asian twist, down to the pickled ginger alongside.

Clams oreganata, however, are routine stuff. Likewise, the smoked salmon platter that's modest in all save price. The shrimp scampi opener seems a bit medicinal, and the shellfish are slightly underdone.

Thick split-pea soup may be a special. The house's lobster stew is a generous, appealing production, with a red tint that gives the dish a flavor hinting of minestrone.

The whole lobsters at Chas. Rothmann's hit 4 pounds. These are major crustaceans. Steamed or broiled, they're easily recommended as a way to spend your bonus or someone else's.

Chas. Rothmann's is less successful with finfish. The potato-crusted Chilean sea bass, while moist, is a pretty dull affair. The swordfish is ample, and satisfactory. But these aren't the reasons to visit.

The porterhouse, the filet mignon, the sirloin, the rib steak, the veal chop, the lamb chops - these are.

Your porterhouse is available in portions for two, three or four. It's a crusty, superior steak, mineral-sweet, tender and juicy. The filet mignon, ordinarily a cut preferred for its texture rather than taste, is velvety and outstanding.

Picking between the sirloin and the rib steak depends on your predilections. They're both very good. Better than either of them, however, is the excellent veal chop, thick and perfectly charred.

The lamb chops are pink, lightly crusted and outstanding. The crackling pork shank doesn't live up to the Maloney & Porcelli adjective, but it's sweet meat, paired with deviled apple sauce, which makes you appreciate simplicity.

On the side, consider the delectable sauteed onions and creamed spinach, the workmanlike mashed potatoes and crisp French fries. Avoid the incinerated hash browns, which become hash blacks courtesy of close encounters with the broiler. And skip the union of cottage fries, sweet potato fries and fried onions, all of which arrive lukewarm and limp.

This isn't the venue for creme brulee or Key lime pie. But you'll savor the apple strudel, cheesecake, the house's chocolate cake and, fittingly, a molten-center chocolate cake that's Gold Coast rich.

The good times are back at Rothmann's.

-- Peter M. Gianotti
Jan. 1, 1999

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