Long Island Restaurants

Waterzooi

Belgian food mussels its way onto Long Island via Waterzooi, an ambitious, high-spirited bistro fueled by 23 taps and 100 bottles of beer.

The cuisine, usually defined around here by memories of World's Fair waffles, an occasional endive and sprouts prefaced Brussels, gets a big boost from this bistro. There's nothing like it between the river and the lighthouse.

And Waterzooi provides a superlative introduction to the glorious brews of Belgium, a land where beer reigned before Rome did. The place is a lively cocktail lounge, too: a dozen martinis, seven more single-malt Scotches, 22 vodkas, for starters.

But you'll enjoy Waterzooi even if you're committed to iced tea and Diet Coke. And devotees of French fries may never leave.

The restaurant has a striking, vaulted-ceiling, mustard-shaded, stucco style. The lighting gives off a soft glow. Mirrors advertise the beverages and sweets. But the biggest lettering is devoted to mussels, beer, waffles and those addictive fries.

Tender mussels materialize in pots of two pounds and 10 preparations. Homard, with scallions and lobster sauce; Provencale, with tomatoes, garlic and herbs; ananas, with pineapple and curried coconut cream sauce; and Ardennese, with ham, chicory and gouda, give you an idea of the variety.

Belgians adore mussels, which food writer Nika Hazelton once termed the national mollusk. As in Brussels, they're served at Waterzooi with frites and mayonnaise. The ample quantity makes sharing wise.

The Belgian affection for asparagus also is evidenced at Waterzooi, with the vegetable cited separately on the menu from the appetizers and salads as your opening act. They're al dente and all right, warm or chilled, with lemon butter or a garlicky Dijonnais and Ardennes ham.

A baked tart of caramelized leeks, pears and Roquefort is a savory starter. The phyllo-encased, baked black pepper Brie and dried fruit is boosted by a peach lambic sauce. Waterzooi revels in the cuisine of beer whenever possible. Even the ample shrimp cocktail is poached in abbey ale.

Lobster croquettes, however, are a trifle dry. The lobster brandy bisque, routine. Better is the split-pea soup with ham. Given the alternatives, the chopped Caesar, and greens, grapes, bacon and pear salads are safe but sleepy choices.

Waterzooi's namesake dish, here a creamy midpoint between seafood stew and soup, is undone by overcooked shellfish. The pan-roasted monkfish, atop caramelized leeks and fennel, is finished with a white beer-pistachio sauce, and improves things.

The herb-roasted chicken breast paired with apple-chicken sausage and rimmed by a rosemary-juniper reduction is mild and modest. Huskier appetites should be drawn to the rosy duck breast accented with cherry beer sauce.

Carbonnades flamandes, the Flemish beer stew, is very hearty stuff, made here with beef, apples and prunes, enriched by monk's brown ale. At lunch, sample frikadellen, or ground beef with cheese, served on toasted challah. Steak frites satisfies, too.

Either with your entree, or on the side, Waterzooi's fries are mandatory, ready for a dip in mayonnaise. You'll be converted. The Brussels sprouts, no larger than marbles, will banish recollections of those stone-hard Thanksgiving accompaniments.

While the food at Waterzooi is fine, the beers and ales are wonderful. Beer is to Belgium what wine is to France. The range is extraordinary, the beers incomparable.

Some highlights at Waterzooi: Mannekin pis white ale; Lindemans framboise, a raspberry treat aperitif or dessert brew; Saison di Pipaix, a venerable sweet-spicy pick; and the great Cantillon Gueuze, a dry-sour treat. Each beer arrives in the ideal glass, leaving tiers of Belgian lace.

For dessert, consider the expert creme brulee and chocolate souffle cake, respectable fruit tart and Neuhaus chocolate plate. The sugar waffles are a bit chewy; the pumpkin cheesecake, dense; and the bread pudding best for its warm autumn fruits.

Yes, it's time for a fruit beer. Toast Waterzooi.

-- Peter M. Gianotti

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