Long Island Restaurants

East Hampton Point

East Hampton Point specializes in sunset on the water and stars on the plate. The airy restaurant has been one of the prettiest perches in the Hamptons since it opened in 1993.

The encumbered view of Three Mile Harbor at dusk is a painter's pleasure, especially on this island, where the stellar restaurant on the shore is a rare species.

You'll enjoy the scene from almost every table, either directly or in reflection, thanks to the well-positioned mirrors. Dine alfresco for the full, glistening, pastel-shaded show.

An occasional sailboat may drift by, as if on cue. If you miss the live-action interlude, a 5.5-meter sailboat is docked permanently in East Hampton Point's bar.

The design of the establishment is tiered and the colors still suggest a variation on the navy blazer and white pants. Mahogany abounds.

Continuing the theme of richness, there's a regularly changing menu of winning dishes. For example, begin with the lush Hudson Valley foie gras finished with candied kumquats and a vinegary edge that provides an ideal counterpoint. Foie gras materializes in many guises here. On another evening, you may encounter a chilled Port-roasted foie gras roulade with a rhubarb compote; or a Port-roasted terrine of foie gras.

For a mellow, Italianate beginning, look for the risotto of asparagus and sweet peas, completed with shavings of Parmesan cheese.The yellowfin tuna sashimi offers a silky Asian riff, with the vegetable and seaweed salad and a touch of Chinese parsley.

You could sample a zesty clam soup, generous with littlenecks, saffron potatoes and escarole. Or be a purist with sweet oysters on the half shell.

Penne tossed with escarole, fennel sausage, plum tomatoes and smoked mozzarella is hearty without overdoing it.

The juicy 16-ounce sirloin benefits from the company of fried onion rings.

Moist and crisp roasted chicken, with whipped potatoes and a lemon-rosemary gravy, elevates homeyness.

The 2-pound steamed lobster, with red bliss potatoes, suits East Hampton Point and a summer appetite.

Pan-roasted halibut (atop a tasty eggplant fondue with sweet pepper salad) and Chilean sea bass (spiked with miso and aswim in a wild mushroom consomme) are first-rate. The marinated and grilled yellowfin tuna with balsamic vinaigrette, rivals them.

Desserts are irresistible. The warm, caramelized banana and pecan bread pudding, with a scoop of caramel ice cream, will be a battleground of forks and spoons. Likewise, the flourless chocolate torte.

The warm, blueberry coffee cake with vanilla ice cream succeeds the pecan coffee cake and is a mellow alternative. So's the creme brulee with berries. Tart passion fruit sorbet is a refreshing finale.

And the twilight is long. You'll linger at East Hampton Point till the stars shine their brightest.

-- Peter M. Gianotti

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