Osteria Toscana
69 Wall St.
Huntington, NY
631-549-7074
Chef Joseph Maulo, who made Il Toscano at the Douglaston LIRR station a mandatory stop, has moved east. So, you should make a fast detour to Huntington. Osteria Toscana showcases the most refined comfort food in town. The busy, first-floor dining room sports exposed brick and colorful vintage posters advertising Parmigiano and Chianti, overhauling the former corner address of Solo. The restaurant already feels as if it has been part of downtown for years. You could become a regular.
THE BEST
Maulo is a prince of pastas. Order pici, similar to spaghetti but plumper, a hand-rolled, semolina production finished with San Marzano tomatoes, basil and Parmesan cheese; or gnudi, thimble-size ricotta mouthfuls, akin to ravioli filling, capped with flecks of speck, mushrooms, asparagus, sage and truffle oil. A special cheese raviolo, filled with a soft egg yolk and finished with truffle oil, defines richness. Tagliatelle Bolognese with peas: terrific. Broad ribbons of pappardelle entwine meat from braised short ribs and sweet cipollini onions in an autumnal red-wine sauce. Precede these with a savory, thin focaccia topped with Gorgonzola cheese, walnuts and sun-dried tomatoes; well-seasoned, chunky ahi tuna tartare, or the combo of veal meatballs, leeks and caponata with Gorgonzola toast. Maulo's bracing cabbage-and-bean ribollita battles any cold weather. Grilled branzino and grilled filet mignon are tasty secondi. On Sunday, the kitchen prepares macaroni in a "slow tomato gravy" full of sausage, meatballs and pork ribs for two or more. Good apple pastry with almond zabaglione, panna cotta with fruit, a playfully "deconstructed" tiramisu, and a flaky Italianate Napoleon accented with strawberry and mint.
THE REST
Chewy eggplant rounds baked with cheese and tomatoes; too-charred sausage with kale and white beans; so-so chocolate-filled ravioli with Nutella and caramel sauces.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Tonight? Tomorrow? Sunday? Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 11/13/08.
HoursOpen for dinner Monday through Friday, 5-10 p.m., Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; Sunday, 3-9 p.m.
Ambience
Very good
Cuisine
Italian
Directions
Major Credit Cards Accepted
Major credit cards except Discover.
Price Range
Expensive ($25-$50),
Moderate ($15-$25)
Rating
Recommended (2 1/2 stars)
Reservations
Recommended
Service
Very good
Wheelchair Access
Step to first-floor dining area.
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North Shore
