Long Island Restaurants

Rivera's

Rivera's advocates "Spanish Fusion Cuisine." That means it's all over the map -- in geography, atmosphere, quality. Order carefully and you'll have a fine meal; usually, a good time. It all depends whether you find dinnertime disco, DJ, salsa or the 180- minute happy hour a plus or a minus. Rivera's location is a little of both. The eatery is on the second level of a shopping center. But it's also above a supermarket, which at least came in handy one night when they ran out of sparkling water and brought some up.

THE BEST

Rivera's offers a small sampler of tapas. Try the frittata Española, a puffy number with potatoes and eggs; and the green plantain chips with piquillo-pepper salsa, which call for the company of a cocktail. The three-cheese plate is highlighted by a slim wedge of Manchego. Satisfying spinach salad with goat cheese and the avocado-added Caesar must fall under the fusion label. The kitchen sends out a juicy porterhouse steak for two, capped with molten Spanish blue cheese. The pork porterhouse with green-plantain puree continues the carnivore's caravan. Filet mignon with roasted, curried cauliflower; marinated, grilled skirt steak; and the mixed grill, with filet mignon, chorizo sausage, chicken and ribs keep the theme going. Lobster sparks the paella. On the side, respectable choices include fried sweet plantains, mashed potatoes, spinach with garlic and sweet-potato fries. Passion fruit and coconut sorbets head the desserts.

THE REST

You'll gnaw on the apricot-ginger-glazed baby back ribs. Skewered shrimp with black beans and rice -- overdone. Likewise, the crab cakes. Routine fried calamari. Strawberries bring color to the green salad, but they're not sweet. Forgettable finales: limoncello meringue, coconut-pineapple parfait, chocolate-truffle cake, rice pudding.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Fusion, pro- and con-.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 10/15/08.

Hours

Website

Menu

Ambience

Cuisine

Major Credit Cards Accepted

Price Range

Reservations

Service

Wheelchair Access