Long Island Restaurants

Jin East

Jin East gins up tradition and jump-starts appetites. It's nouveau Japanese with a trace of Thai and a rush of imagination: the spirit of Nobu boarding the LIRR. Lots of restaurants have attempted this route, routinely missing their stops. But Jin East arrives refined, assured, in very good taste. The sleek spot, shaded in earth tones, accented with contemporary panelling and bamboo, delivers flavor with flair. Competitors immediately seem old.

THE BEST

An apropos starter: "21 Century" - translucent slices of striped bass fanned out, drizzled with hot sesame oil, finished with snippets of scallion. Or try the artful lobster soba, a turret of buckwheat noodles opposite another of tender shellfish seasoned with mint for a harmonious duet. The kitchen has some fun with the combo of smoked salmon, cream cheese and tomato salsa, but you're still better off with the crunchy, sweet-hot deep-fried rock shrimp. The "special sushi & sashimi" includes deluxe fatty tuna, sweet shrimp, monkfish liver, abalone and a striplet of Kobe beef; the basics, Spanish mackerel, fluke, scallop. Well-seasoned seaweed salad, miso-tofu and mushroom soups, udon noodles in broth, and a very satisfying version of the ever-present miso black cod, here with snow peas and asparagus. Jin East also prepares a commendable rendition of the usually tired seafood teriyaki. Vivid sushi rolls: the "monster," with lobster tempura, avocado and asparagus wrapped with mango and seaweed salad; "super star," with black-pepper tuna, roe, yellowtail, salmon, white tuna; and "sakura," a mini-rainbow of fish dusted with bonito powder, dabbed with mustard sauce. If you need dessert, the fried banana will do.

THE REST

The "jalapeño yummy roll" overwhelms the assorted fish with too much heat. Seafood in lemon butter overdoes the saucing. The crisp duck roll materializes underseasoned. Ordinary shumai. And skippable sweets: fried ice cream, gelatinous panna cotta, crème brûlée.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Subtle and bright.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 9/26/08.

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