Long Island Restaurants

Nico at the Gatsby Mansion

Nico refers to new owners Roberto and Diane Nicola; The Gatsby Mansion itself belongs ceaselessly to the past.

Chef Richard Lanza updates and refines the kitchen at the plush, now mostly Italian place. It used to be simply, or grandiosely, The Gatsby: opulent New American, never great. The current name doesn't quite have the ring of Sinatra at the Sands, but Frank's greatest hits do provide the background sound. And Lanza arrives via the de Seversky Center at NYIT in Old Westbury and Trumpets on the Bay in Eastport.

His current stage is a big old house from the 1870s, with its comfortable, spacious dining room. Pre-Gatsby, this was the address of Tang's, a kitschy Chinese joint that you may remember - or just want to forget.

THE BEST

Lanza prepares a soothing corn chowder; light little crab cakes with corn relish and sauce rémoulade; and a crisp, fried calamari. The yellow-and-red tomato salad with fresh mozzarella, and the spinach salad both are fine. Mozzarella in carrozza: the dainty version, well-done. Rigatoni Bolognese works as an appetizer or an entree. Crisp-skinned branzino arrives with caponata and sauteed broccoli rabe. The tender, panko-crusted pork chop and grilled lamb chops tastefully bridge summer and fall. And there's a deluxe production of chicken parmigiana. Satisfying desserts cross borders: apple cobbler, crème brûlée, chocolate-amaretto torte, angel food cake with Key lime custard and marinated berries. House-made limoncello, the lemon liqueur, is offered gratis. Enjoy it.

THE REST

Pan-seared yellowfin tuna does get a boost from a roasted tomato-and-garlic relish. Gnocchi in pesto stresses cheese more than basil. Seafood risotto veers toward pasty. So does rice pudding.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Green light.

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