Long Island Restaurants

780 Grill & Clam Bar

Clams oreganata, fried clam strips, New England clam chowder_you get the idea pretty fast at 780, a bright new spot a short walk from the beach. The style stresses city sleek, but the food equally at ease with more casual fare. Order carefully and you'll have a good meal. The fried clams are fine, ready for a dip in tangy tartar sauce. And that chowder also is commendably creamy. But the clams themselves are a bit chewy, both in the chowder and in the oreganata. An alternative: tender and crisp fried calamari. The house's Greek salad must be from an island hidden in the Aegean. It comes with mesclun and baby rock shrimp. The better main courses include onion-crusted yellowtail snapper and husky pork chops with mashed potatoes and very sweet sweet potatoes. Each is presented in an oversize, white platter that just as easily could hold the Thanksgiving turkey. Skip the house's gummyu five-cheese ravioli. Cannoli are the top desserts.

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