Long Island Restaurants

Cove Star

Many Chinese restaurants on LI have formed unwieldy alliances with the cuisines of Japan and Thailand. Some have crossed all borders to become Asian; some have turned to fusion. Cove Star did it all. Veteran diners will remember this as the home of Golden Woks, once one of Nassau's top spots to wield chopsticks. Its successors just made you want to put a fork in. Cove Star definitely improves the situation. The decor reflects toned-down kitsch, foo dogs kept at bay. But you expect a dragon at any moment. The immediate impression is more memory lane than future shock. That extends to the menu, too.

THE BEST

Cove Star prepares a moist, meaty, crisp-skinned, one-course Beijing duck, with light pancakes, scallion and hoisin sauce. Sesame chicken and walnut-strewn puffed shrimp also are satisfying. Vegetable hot-and-sour, wonton and coconut-chicken chowder lead the soups. Go Thai with a lively red curry, best with prawns or beef. Pad Thai: respectable. And you can take a slight Indian turn with roti paratha, thin bread with a spicy curry dipping sauce. Better sushi rolls include the "hot tea" number with peppery tuna, spicy salmon, avocado and a hint of green tea; and the Glen Cove namesake with lobster tempura, plus mango and cucumber. Traditional nigirizushi, or uncooked fish on ovals of vinegared rice; and unadorned sashimi are fine. Tuna tataki, seared and served with tart ponzu and shiso sauce; and tuna tartare head the dozen "Japanese fusion" selections.

THE REST

A bland Vietnamese summer roll proves the season is fading. And the "Vietnamese crispy fish" translates into overcooked red snapper. Chicken satay arrives dry, and the vegetable tempura could use more crunch. Cold noodles in sesame sauce deserve a chile-oil jump-start.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Local stop.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 9/10/08.

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