Benkei


16 Woodbine Ave.
Northport, NY
631-262-7100

It was a savvy move to open a Japanese restaurant across from the harbor in scenic Northport village. Now, the crowds strolling the pier or checking out local shops can just walk a few feet to land that all-important sushi fix.

Restaurateur-sushi chef Sam Chung uses lots of dark wood accents in the simple but dramatic decor of the place. It's the food, though, that's the true focal point.

One of Chung's specialties is tuna tataki, the fish barely seared, drizzled with a wasabi-spiked mayonnaise. Maki rolls are artfully put together, pristinely fresh. A "special rainbow" roll (various kinds of fish draped over a spicy crunchy tuna roll) proved both colorful and piquant. The flavor and texture of the eel used in the dragon roll was first-rate. One roll, named "#2 yammy," featured a salad of spicy crunchy crab piled atop a tuna roll. It was messy to look at but worked fine in the eating.

On one visit, six of us started by sharing several rolls and appetizers. From the kitchen, pan-fried gyoza (pork-filled dumplings) were light and flavorsome. I especially enjoyed the spicy ika, pan-fried squid and vegetables in an assertive reddish sauce. Hijiki tofu featured creamy squares topped with a rich teriyaki sauce and a bright seaweed salad. The contrast of flavors and textures played well.

A sushi and sashimi combo for two was lovely in appearance, flavor and freshness, featuring several kinds of fish plus three rolls. I can never resist a good noodle dish, and the chicken yaki udon (stir-fried noodles with chicken and vegetables) was just that, vibrant and savory.

Another success, Benkei salmon, translated into a good-sized slab sauteed in butter and served with a light cucumber sauce. But shrimp and vegetable tempura turned out to be a fry basket fiasco, the batter leaden, the shellfish rubbery. Although ordered as an appetizer, it was brought late in the meal by an indifferent waiter. We hardly touched it. Not so the grilled yellowtail jaw, which arrived at the same time. A gorgeous piece of fish, it was devoured in moments.

To all appearances, Benkei is bustling on weekends. Clearly, it fills a niche -- and does so quite well.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 9/10/07.

Hours: Lunch, Tuesday to Saturday, noon to 2:30 p.m.; dinner, Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.

Cuisine

Japanese

Price Range

Expensive ($25-$50), Moderate ($15-$25)

Wheelchair Access

Accessible