Long Island Restaurants

Prime View

(THIS RESTAURANT HAS CLOSED.)

Finally.

It has taken years for a very good restaurant to move into the big, waterside spot on Shore Road, a site that seems to have had more arrivals and departures than LaGuardia Airport.

But Iavarone Bros., known for its four Italian markets and the Fratelli Iavarone Cafe in Lake Success, has turned 37 Shore Rd. into a full-flavored destination.

The two-story building, occupied most recently by Cinnamon Club and most notably by Diwan, has been refreshed as much as the cooking has been revived. It's recommended for new American and Italian fare.

And for friendly, attentive service as well as a warm, inviting approach to dining out. There's no pretense, no nonsense -- just a very tasty way to start the new year.

Begin with the satisfying, creamy New England-style clam-and-corn chowder or the homey, generous soup of chicken and vegetable. Nibble on the crisp fried zucchini, or dive into the quartet of meatball-slider sandwiches in Gorgonzola-spiked puffs.

The bourbon-and-espresso glazed ribs are on the sweet side, but moist and fall-off-the-bone tender. The kitchen prepares a respectable crab cake, paired with roasted corn-and-tomato salsa.

But the clever "Esca" roll, in which raisins, shiitake mushrooms and crumbled sausage are wrapped in sheaves of escarole and finished with tomato sauce, is underseasoned and doesn't quite come together.

Instead, take an Asian turn with the Thai beef salad, with sliced tenderloin and a sesame-ginger vinaigrette; or the beet salad (with beets of three hues) with fennel, Maytag blue cheese, candied pecans and roasted apples.

Prime View sends out juicy pork chops flanked by a sweet-potato gratin and haricots verts, completed with a grappa-cherry reduction. Equally recommended: braised short ribs atop a parsnip purée with sautéed cipollini onions, baby carrots and, again, haricots verts.

The homey, pan-roasted chicken with mashed potatoes and a ragout of squash rivals these. Likewise, the "Long Island duck duo," a combination of rosy, roasted duck breast and shredded duck confit in a salad of warm arugula and figs. Competition comes from the Gorgonzola-crusted filet mignon and the chargrilled Black Angus strip steak with onion rings, sautéed spinach and mushrooms.

Seaside, there are fewer choices. The thin cut of grilled swordfish gets a boost from heirloom-tomato-and-watercress salad; the roasted prawns, from a diverting vanilla sauce.

Early on, two pastas highlight the menu: linguine with cockles and chorizo in a tomato-garlic sauce, and orecchiette tossed with broccoli rabe and sausage. The better desserts are rice pudding, pine-nut tart and brownie a la mode.

You'll leave content.

At last.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 1/6/08.

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