Long Island Restaurants

Muse

If you like Muse, you also may want to try: Scrimshaw 102 Main St. Greenport 631-477-8882. Wildthyme 129 Noyac Rd. Southampton 631-204-0007.

For an easy, dependable way to find a lively, unpredictable meal on Long Island, just follow chef Matthew Guiffrida.

He has starred in the kitchens of the departed Collage in Huntington; and at The Inn at Quogue and The Patio in Westhampton Beach. Now, Giuffrida has his own place. And it's one of the best new restaurants in the Hamptons.

Designed with flair and some whimsy, Muse is a vibrant eye-catcher, stuffed into a shopping center niche. This is the real reason to turn in.

You enter via the bar area, the bar itself holding a colorful fish tank. Under a Casablanca-style fan, near barrel-racks of very good wine, is an artful, summery dining room, well-run, with attentive, accommodating service.

More important: Guiffrida's playful, four-way "tuna palooza," with sesame-seared ahi, sashimi on spicy tuna mousse, a sugar-cane lollipop holding tuna sparked by sesame-ginger jus, and mango-spiked tuna tartare.

Or try "not ya mama's meatballs," a harmonious quartet including sweet-spicy Asian, tomato-Parmesan Italian, Swedish, and turkey. Just as good: curried honey-and-soy seared scallops on seaweed salad. Best of all is the "really, really, really soft taco," a turret of pulled pork on charred corn masa, accented with cilantro-shaded crème fraîche and an avocado coulis.

Guiffrida excels with a juicy, horseradish-and-Gorgonzola cheese crusted strip steak, on "Tater Tot" hash and a white-bean saute. Just as inviting is the meaty, full-flavored "wasabi pea crusted" duck au poivre, flanked by curried sweet potato salad and lush cranberry-duck confit.

And there's "Mambo Chicken Italiano," cutlets layered with a cheese-tomato combo, herbaceous spaetzle and pesto-enriched cream sauce. It's dubbed "Dean Martin's favorite dish." Who'd argue? Guiffrida clearly is fond of Dino, Frank, Sammy and the rest of the Rat Pack, as several photos suggest.

Conclude with apple fritters, flourless chocolate cake or a "fluffer nutter" of peanut butter cream, French toast and housemade marshmallow.

No spin on cannoli. Yet.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 6/22/07.

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Major Credit Cards Accepted

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