Long Island Restaurants

Fortune

Seek your Fortune on Old Country Road. At a time when Chinese restaurants seem to be taking a communal nose-dive on Long Island, this pleasant little place gamely tries a rescue mission. Mostly, it works. But Fortune does come at some expense. It succeeds Zen Palate, one of the few respectable oases for vegetarians in Nassau and Suffolk. The decor is pretty much the same, with polished wood and neutral tones. Some of the table tops, however, are well beyond worn. Service, however, is good. And so's much of the food. They prepare a commendable Beijing duck, in one or two courses; husky orange beef; mild General Tso's chicken and chicken Soong. If you want some heat, try the Siamese-style curry noodles. Other satisfying selections include the scallion pancakes, vegetarian hot-and-sour soup, and taro rolls.

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