Long Island Restaurants

Four Food Studio

Chef James McDevitt stands out at Four Food Studio and Cocktail Salon like a jazz artist caught in a loud ad for light beer or racy rum.

You have to put up with a lot to enjoy his food on a Friday or Saturday night, when Four becomes a sensory bombshell of merciless, monotonous sound and full-fashion, meet-market activity that ensures no AARP discounts.

This advanced Fourplay occurs in a setting as over-the-top as it was when it debuted 18 months and three chefs ago. There's still nothing on Long Island like Four, which blends into Route 110 with the anonymity of a spaceship.

Embrace it or tune it out. Try a weeknight. Maybe lunch. But the quality of McDevitt's cooking overrides any assault on ears and eyes. The executive chef, who gained some fame in food magazines and at his Napa Valley and Scottsdale restaurants, performs on an unusual stage. But he earns Four Food Studio a three-star rating.

McDevitt's current repertoire ranges from a mellow spring garlic risotto with prawns, preserved Meyer lemon and tomato vinaigrette; to elegant marinated hamachi finished with shaved heart of palm, avocado, mango, seaweed and a citrusy vinaigrette.

Spring garlic-and-ramps soup is the season in a bowl. The creamy puree of cauliflower soup floating mitake mushrooms rivals it. Crisp calamari, accented with lemongrass sauce, papaya, litchi and watercress; and hoisin-glazed ribs, with pickled watermelon and peanuts, elevate the so-often ordinary.

Flatbreads with toppings such as roasted garlic and sausage or buffalo mozzarella and tomato are savory pizza-likes and worth sharing. But you'll want to keep the elemental heirloom tomato salad for yourself.

An outstanding grilled, dry-aged strip improves on the versions at many steak houses. Syrah-braised short ribs: ideal on a cool night. Juicy chicken enriched with morels: anytime.

Crisp skate with summer truffles, ginger- and herb-roasted turbot with pickled ramps and asparagus, and striped bass paired with clams, chorizo, braised artichokes and an undercurrent of curry, are excellent main courses.

Desserts include a showy, shareable dark chocolate fondue; and a root beer float "grande" that's just fun. The crème brûlée and vanilla bean cheesecake are dependably professional. Cotton candy: gratis.

Of course, Four has cute cocktails, too. But the order of priority is: Eat, drink and be merry.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 6/10/07.

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