Long Island Restaurants

Rowdy Hall

Hidden away in an alley is this charming Anglo-Gallic pub furnished in the style of the American Arts and Crafts period and under the same ownership as Nick & Toni's and La Fondita. The food is simple and eminently pleasing.

Start with the French onion soup, a sweet, rich broth capped with a melt of Gruyere. Burgers are thick, beefy and juicy - they're almost too thick to fit into the mouth. There's a croque monsieur, and classic steak frites. The real showpiece, though, is fish and chips, which come to table in the traditional English fashion, wrapped in a newspaper jacket, the sweet, snowy cod fried to a crunchy turn in its ale-batter crust.

Finding the restaurant can be a problem: If you're on the northwest corner of Newtown Lane and Main Street, cross over to the south side and walk straight ahead, down an alleyway that continues along the line of Newtown. It's at the end of that alley. And well worth seeking out.

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Wheelchair Access