Aug 30, 2008
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Nonnina

Nonnina means little granny. But this one arrives big and buoyant. And she definitely knows what's cooking.

Decorated with vintage Italian posters and exhibiting a whimsical sense of style, the new restaurant is a refined and refreshing stop, livening Long Island's winter table.

This Italianate spin on the bistro theme is the detailed handiwork of co-owners Robert DiPierro, most recently general manager at Tellers in Islip; and Paul Aniboli, who ran Nonnina's predecessor, The Bridge; but especially chef Richard Soriano, formerly of Cipollini in Manhasset.

Their place is shaded in .beiges and browns, illuminated by silvery light, warmed by fireplaces and exposed brick. A popular bar divides the first- floor dining areas. Upstairs, there's more privacy, less noise. Either way: vibrant food.

Good, rustic bread and a plate of sweet ricotta arrive with the menus. Nibble and peruse. And pick an antipasto plate with savory caponata and roasted peppers, porchetta and prosciutto, Parmesan and wine-bathed cheeses.

A sign outside advertises brick-oven pizzas, and they're tasty enough. Share a white pie capped with robiola, mascarpone and truffle oil; or the more modest zucchini number. Balance them with a well-dressed arugula salad, dotted with pistachio, roasted tomato and goat cheese, and you have a savory middle course.

You can skip the routine baked clams oreganata; the flat version of vitello tonnato, the summery dish of veal in tuna sauce; and the limp shellfish ceviche. Instead, go for a crisp, straightforward fritto misto of calamari, shrimp, zucchini and lemon rounds.

Delectably smoky bucatini alla carbonara, flecked with speck, the cured meat, highlights the pastas. Likewise, fettuccine with lobster, sparked with red pepper. Penne with wild mushrooms, mascarpone, peas and porchetta actually comes across a tamer choice. Acceptable orecchiette with broccoli rabe and housemade sausage shouldn't distract you, either.

Whole roasted branzino, completed with olive oil, lemon and herbs; and pan-seared striped bass, moist and amply tomatoed, vie for catch of the day.

Soriano excels with a generous, full-bodied union of smoky duck breast draped on root vegetables, with cherry-mustard sauce; and the tender confit of duck leg on lentils.

His buttery, bone-in Berkshire Farm pork chop, thick and juicy, is ignited by a combo of cherry peppers and sweet apple. Cotechino sausage, potato and onion confit, and grilled lemons spur the zesty chicken scarpariello. A side order of escarole and white beans is mandatory here.

So are the puffy, oversize lemon-poppy ricotta fritters accented with acacia honey and macerated raisins and currants; and the panettone French toast, cantilevered logs with vanilla gelato, Nutella and peanut butter sauce. Purists can enjoy the mini-cannoli, a plate of biscotti centered around a saucer-size pignoli cookie, and perhaps a Jacopo Poli or Nonino grappa.

Countless nonnas would approve. So will you.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianott, 2/11/07.

Hours: Every day for dinner, from 5 p.m. Monday to Saturday; from 3 p.m., Sunday. Weekend reservations recommended.

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Wheelchair Access