Maxxels
526 Jericho Tpke.
Mineola, NY 11501-1104
516-294-3604
Maxxels, a storefront tucked in a modest shopping center, is very easy to miss. Don't.
Veteran diners may remember the earlier Maxxels, a respectable spot that specialized in seafood. But the reborn and relocated restaurant, situated near the old site, has turned into a beacon for refined, confident new American cooking, with snappy side trips.
Chef Phil Iannuccilli prepares invigorating fare that suits the colorful surroundings of the popular place. The sunny-hued dining room is decorated not with the usual faux-Impressionism or harmless seascapes, but with witty, provocative oversize photos about food, dining, more.
And Iannuccilli's cooking is even livelier, akin to a first-class, travels-with-Phil itinerary: from homey little meatballs in sweet-sour tomato sauce to sharp, seared tuna with wasabi-ginger oil; from shrimp dumplings in toasted sesame-peanut sauce to oysters finished with sweet corn salsa and a riff on sauce remoulade. Iannuccilli is a busy guy.
The perpetual-motion dining-room staff keeps pace. This easygoing, well-run domain handles crowds warmly and efficiently. Waiters are patient and friendly, especially when under siege, facing the demand of the moment. That happens a lot.
You'll be satisfied immediately with a duet of plump griddled crab cakes, or a crisp, sweet soft-shell crab. A soup of escarole and white beans, floating a few tiny meatballs, is very good; a creamy asparagus soup, finished with toasted pistachios and brioche croutons the size of ice cubes, even better.
There are some less-successful dishes: so-so shrimp dumplings, too-sweet "dragon fried" calamari, over-orchestrated spinach salad, enriched but still tired rigatoni with sausage and broccoli rabe, a pretty mild filet mignon au poivre.
Still, everything gets going again with the refreshing, marinated and charred Indonesian steak and sweet-sour rocket salad; and the pork chop Latino-style, with chipotle-whipped potatoes, sofrito, and roasted tomatillo sauce. And the house's generous sirloin cheeseburger and fries has more than elemental appeal.
Delicate, pan-roasted halibut with asparagus and a crown of frizzled leeks and the aromatic cod-and-shellfish variation on pot-au-feu, sporting fennel, sausage and tomatoes in saffron-shaded broth, are handily recommended.
The fine desserts definitely have presence. Try the elegant dark chocolate marquise, caramel upside-down cheesecake, honey-roasted pear crisp, chocolate-hazelnut tiramisu, or coconut crème brûlée.
Maxxels nears three stars, for the ambition and the professionalism, the food and the fun. It would stand out anywhere.
Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 4/29/07.
HoursDinner every day, from 4:30 p.m. 6 days and from 2 p.m. on Sundays. Lunch, Monday to Saturday. Dinner reservations recommended weekdays, necessary weekends.
Website
Assessment
A star in the making.
Cuisine
New American
Directions
North side, in the shopping center at the intersection with Herricks Road.
Major Credit Cards Accepted
All major cards.
Notable dishes
Meatballs, seared tuna, seafood pot-au-feu, Indonesian steak, Latino-style pork chop, desserts.
Price Range
Expensive ($25-$50),
Moderate ($15-$25)
Rating
Very Good (2 stars)
Wheelchair Access
Tight dining area.
|
North Shore
