Long Island Restaurants

King Umberto

King Umberto reigns in Elmont. It has ruled the red-sauce kingdom since 1976 with fare that's as hearty now as it always has been. The restaurant's main decoration: walls of photos of satisfied customers and Christmas parties. On any given night, expect at least two or three rounds of "Happy Birthday," sung with brio by the staff. Stay with the southern Italian specialties and you'll do just fine. There also are daily specials that take you beyond mondo Parmigiana. Enjoy the minestrone; "baci balls" of toasted and pan-feied mozzarella, roasted pepper and prosciutto; rice cakes spiked with Gorgonzola cheese. The pastas with sauces marinara, vodka, filetto di pomodoro and clam all are standbys. They also succeed with orecchiette tossed with cauliflower, shrimp, olive oil, then sprinkled with toasted breadcrumbs. Good chicken scarpariello, pistachio-crusted salmon. And better cannoli. The adjoining pizzeria is deservedly popular.

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