Sergio's


5422 Merrick Rd.
Massapequa, NY
516-541-6554

Sergio's has been a bastion of southern Italian fare since 1986. Plenty of red sauce flows here. Perciatelli with sardines and fennel, for example, may be had red or white. And linguine with clam sauce also is dependable either way; linguine with shrimp sauce, straight red.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 8/16/06.

Southern Italian cooking is the soul of Sergio's, a longtime favorite. It's an informally appointed, busy place, where the kids are as at home as the suits are.

The establishment specializes in gutsy, full-flavored food. Honeycomb tripe in red sauce is a hearty, intense number, well-prepared. Veal al Zio Ciccio, cutlets with cheese and mushrooms in wine sauce, also stands out. For pasta, perciatelli with sardines and fennel is a winner. Most of the scarlet-sauced pastas are.

You can forgo the pork chops and the meatballs in favor of steak alla pizzaiola.

If you want seafood, stick with calamari in marinara sauce, or shrimp, equally crimsoned. Finfish tend to be overdone.

Begin with the excellent Sicilian salad of oranges, or the stuffed artichoke. Lentil soup and pasta e fagioli also are first-rate openers. On the side, or as an appetizer: escarole and cannellini beans, broccoli rabe or spinach finished with garlic and olive oil.

Cannoli and cassata are the essential finales. The bowl of fruit is gratis.



Hours: Every day for lunch and dinner.

Assessment

Soulful Southern Italian cooking for the family, in a modest setting. Full-flavored fare.

Cuisine

Italian, Seafood

Price Range

Moderate ($15-$25)

Rating

Very Good (2 stars)

Special Features

Open for Lunch/Brunch, Good for Parties/Large Groups, Business Lunch/Dinner, Suitable for Young Children

Wheelchair Access

Yes