Long Island Restaurants

The Gatsby

When The Gatsby opened a couple of years ago, it was destined for the valley of ashes: careless, at the ragged edge -- not great.

Chef Darren Lawless arrived in 2005, by way of Manhattan restaurants as different as Lavagna and Union Pacific, and earlier, the stellar La Tante Claire in London. Now The Gatsby is a very different spot.

Not that the opulent appointments have changed much. Sometimes, The Gatsby comes across as a send-up of the romantic. But the big old house, a local landmark dating to the 1870s, did receive a major overhaul before giving up the memory of Tang's, a pile of kitsch that set back suburban Chinese a few dynasties.

Where the steam-table buffet once reigned, The Gatsby's main dining room announces itself, well, in a voice full of money. Exposed brick, comfy seating, harmless art, major wine cabinet, the works. Catering rooms carry such names as Buchanan, Daisy, Fitzgerald and, yes, Gatsby. The one dubbed "Turret" is in one.

One of the important additions is the very solid door that effectively acts as soundproofing, separating the diners from the high-decibel bar across the hall, where recently you could hear a rendition of "Touch Me" that proved conclusively that Jim Morrison is still dead.

Lawless ignites his menu with a snappy tuna sashimi, which goes international with shaved fennel, a pignoli puree, cubanelle peppers and tart, citrusy yuzu. He adds cherry peppers to spark fried calamari, and parsnip fondant to accent pan-seared sea scallops.

There's less harmony to the dry, shrimp-and-foie gras agnolotti, finished with a Madeira tea. Enjoy your shrimp unimpeded in a good cocktail. Both the lobster-stuffed tomato and the crab cake, boosted by a cilantro puree and smoky paprika aioli, are generous and tasty.

Orecchiette tossed with artichokes and Thai basil, however, is overly sweet; the spinach-and-ricotta ravioli with mushrooms, and the gnocchi with a Parmesan "fondue" are simply dull.

Refresh yourself with the satisfying salad of roasted beets, frisée and goat cheese; or the chickpea number, with tomatoes and mild Taleggio cheese.

Lawless excels with such entrees as the grilled shell steak on bacon-creamed vegetables with almond pesto and a mantle of savory, caramelized Brussels sprouts; and pork tenderloin atop cabbage with apple-wood-smoked bacon and pearl onions.

He similarly succeeds with a braised lamb shank, on creamy white beans and ditalini pasta, completed with a version of gremolata starring toasted pine nuts. But wild king salmon, with Parmesan-seasoned polenta, is overcooked; miso-marinated Chilean sea bass with sesame broth, overdone.

"The Gatsby's Tiramisu," six-layer carrot cake and "crème brûlée cheesecake" are appropriately excessive. The peanut butter sundae, espresso panna cotta and apple crisp make sure no one gets too excited.

Through all this, service stays friendly and attentive, ensuring that The Gatsby isn't borne back ceaselessly into the past. Give it a green light.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 5/14/06.

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