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Wild Honey

Wild Honey puts you in clover.

The new restaurant opens in one of Oyster Bay's landmarks: the building where Theodore Roosevelt had his summer executive office.

In the years since, the traditions haven't always been quite so progressive. Several restaurants, most recently Harvest, have occupied the spot. The Book Mark Cafe probably had the longest run.

Wild Honey improves dramatically on all of them. But the earth-tone dining room, with its exposed brick and assorted hard surfaces, can be noisy enough to bring out the Rough Rider in you.

Most of the conversation ricocheting around, when not political, turns to the edible. And there's plenty to talk about.

Begin with a deftly seasoned, peppery white chowder of oysters and clams, potatoes and pancetta. It's ideal on a breezy night. Or turn absolutely summery with a refreshing salad of dewy lump crabmeat, sliced avocado, papaya, red onions and greens in a gingery citrus vinaigrette.

"Texas toast" is the official designation for a savory opener of grilled wild mushrooms glistening with olive oil and spiked with garlic and herbs set on a thick cut of bread. A couple of these could be a fine lunch.

But the "open pit chicken sate," with its Thai hint in the title, arrives as a prosciutto- wrapped, mini-zeppelin of white meat with pesto. It's pretty bland, even with sweet grilled pears. And the dish looks like a wedding-reception refugee.

Underseasoning also undermines the "guava BBQ ribs," which taste merely boiled rather than slow-roasted. The charred tomato relish and pineapple-jicama slaw are good on their own, but can't rescue the ribs.

Instead, consider the steamed littlenecks, in a roasted garlic broth with scallions and tomatoes; or the "iron skillet mussels," with salt, pepper and butter for company.

The "beach house" salad, with grape tomatoes, greens, blue-corn crisps and a wild honey dressing has a mellow quality. The Caesar salad is the mild variety, but boosted by shards of Grana Padano cheese.

Pappardelle Bolognese is worth sampling either as an appetizer or a main course. The snappy sauce brings veal, beef, prosciutto and porcini mushrooms into the mix. Very good.

The sirloin steak with grilled shiitake mushrooms and mashed potatoes is tender and terrific, pink as ordered, with a touch of balsamic vinegar. For bigger appetites, there's a generous prime rib, resting on a mash of sweet potatoes. It does, however, materialize more toward well-done than medium-rare. The beef is boosted by a bourbon-laced shallot sauce.

A grilled, double-cut pork chop, juicy and husky, benefits from mashed, stuffed boniato, the white-fleshed Cuban sweet potato; broccoli rabe, and a balsamic vinaigrette. Moist, slightly charred Cornish game hen is supported by a rather dry version of panzanella, the Italian bread salad.

The kitchen fashions a delectable, sweet corn emulsion, which surrounds a flaky cut of Chilean sea bass. A saute of spinach and mushrooms and frizzled leeks complete the show. Equally fine: oak- planked swordfish, with an oven-dried tomato relish, mashed potatoes, roasted peppers and a spinach saute.

Tangy key lime pie is here in two versions, a hefty wedge and a more stylized individual tart. The open-faced peach tart is ripe and sweet. An updated, too-refined s'mores tart could use a Girl Scout's campfire expertise.

The cheese plate boasts creamy Brie, Parmesan, pungent Gorgonzola and Dorset Cheddar, berries, biscotti, and a triangle of fruit-crusted bread.

All that's missing is some chestnut honey.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 5/16/04.

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