Explore Long Island

Akari

Akari is cut precisely as sushi and fits snugly into the mold of Long Island's Japanese restaurants. It does, however, improve on the usual results.

The sushi here is good, particularly the handrolls. Look for those made with fluke, mackerel, tuna or eel. And futomaki, the fat, kaleidoscopic roll, is tasty.

Leading cooked dishes include a fine vegetable tempura; tatsuta age, or deep-fried chicken; and yosenabe, the seafood casserole.

Generally, the teriyaki dishes are routine. Likewise, gyoza, seared dumplings filled here with shrimp, and the soups, from basic miso to the clear, clam soup.

The buckwheat noodles called soba are fine, as are the fat, white udon noodles paired with shrimp tempura.

A quartered orange is the best dessert.

Peter M. Gianotti

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