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Onzon Thai House

Much of the fare at this small, cozy storefront Thai cafe is wonderful. The sweet-citric tom kha gai, chicken coconut soup certainly is. So is the ambrosial tom ped, a spicy duck soup with galanga, lemongrass, tomato, sacllions and lime juice. On a recent visit, a salad of grilled shrimp over mixed greens detonated exciting little bursts of flavor.

Onzon's curries delight. A green curry with beef features sliced eggplant and fork-tender pieces of meat in a fragrant pea-green sauce. Massamun curry is rife with chicken and potatoes, savory-sweet and zippy.

But there can be problems. Pad kra pro - pork with basil - was delicious, although not extra-spicy, as ordered. When a server inquired as to whether it was spicy enough and was told it wasn't, her answer was, "Next time, it will be." A pricey off-menu special of shrimp with kumquats, grapes, oragnes, pineapple, and mangoes contained no mangoes. When an inquiry was made, a shrug was the only reply. Yes, the dish was good, but it was also undersized.

You might have better luck when you visit. For certainly, the kitchen is an eminently skilled one.

Joan Reminick. STAFF WRITER

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Wheelchair Access