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Mirelle's

Anybody still looking for the Wheatley Hills Tavern had better sit down and have a yogurt shake. In its place comes The Red Fort, a good Indian restaurant that's the heir to the departed Bombay Cafe on Old Country Road.

For now, fans of both the cafe and the tavern will find harmony at fort. A quasi-Tudor style remains in the decor, and the big room in the back still can cater an election night celebration.

You could start with a respectable, bracing and peppery mulligatawny soup.

Or nibble on the crisp, fried vegetable fritters, finished with chickpea flour. The pyramid-shaped vegetable samosas, filled with spiced potatoes and peas, also are recommended.

Papri chaat translates into chickpeas, diced potatoes and noodles in a refreshing sweet-tart sauce. Bhail poori means rice vermicelli in diverting mint and tamarind sauce.

The Red Fort does well with Indian staples such as rogan josh, the crimson lamb stew here enlivened with onions, and the lamb vindaloo, with a slight vinegary edge and, if requested, enough electricity to string lights along Old Country Road.

More modestly seasoned is saag gost, or lamb finished with spinach and restrained spicing. Chunks of lamb highlight the mixed grill.

But the seekh kebab, a ground lamb sausage, is on the dry side. And some of the tandoori dishes are unevenly cooked, particularly the reddened, marinated chicken, and the boneless, skewered chicken.

You're better off with chicken jalfrezi, boneless pieces cooked with peppers and tomatoes, or the chicken korma, in a satisfactory cream sauce. The chicken receiving the vindaloo treatment is one high-flying bird.

Generally, the seafood trails these, whether shellfish or finfish. But the Goan-style spicing, with coconut sauce, boosts the most neutral filet.

Raita, the yogurt dish with cucumbers and tomato, does double duty. It's a cooling accompaniment, and a pleasing appetizer.

Vegetarians could live at The Red Fort. Almost all the vegetable dishes are tasty and deftly seasoned. Try the channa masala, or chick peas complemented by onions and subtle spices; and the dal makhani, lentils prepared with cream, tomato, and a fistful of herbs and spices.

The cauliflower-and-potato union called gobhi aloo; aloo mattar, or potatoes and peas in curry sauce; and saag paneer, the combo of spinach and cheese, are equally mellow and right.

Biryani naintara, the rice dish made with vegetables, dried fruit and nuts, could be shared contentedly by the table. The kitchen also sends out biryanis with chicken and lamb. A homey pilaf with peas competes in this category, too.

Breads are an essential part of your meal here. The leavened and stuffed onion kulcha; aloo paratha, whole wheat bread with potatoes; and the snappy garlic naan head the selections. You'll also like the plain, buttery whole-wheat paratha. The deep-fried unleavened poori, however, is oily.

The familiar desserts are listed: kulfi, Indian ice cream; rasmalai, the cheese patties; kheer, rice pudding.

But one of those yogurt drinks is a good idea. Make it a double mango, no chaser.

-- Peter M. Gianotti

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