Jan 7, 2009
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Jan 7, 2009 |
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THE BEST
Orlowski's Long Island clam chowder plays off the New England theme and lightens it up with local clams, cream, potatoes, bacon, onions and thyme. He turns effortlessly Asian with Thai-style chicken wrapped in lettuce and finished with cilantro, ready for peanut and sweet-chile dipping sauces. His peppery arugula salad benefits from toasted almonds, herbed goat cheese and a mild strawberry vinaigrette.
Brick-oven pizzas are casual appetizers, whether the basic Margherita or a pie with spinach, goat cheese and roasted garlic. Warm, sauteed arugula, roasted peppers, eggplant puree, and Yukon Gold potatoes support slablets of rosy, grilled ahi tuna, drizzled with Kalamata olive vinaigrette. Plump and sweet Shinnecock sea scallops rest on sauteed spinach, wild mushrooms, roasted corn and corn puree. The American Kobe beef hamburger paired with jicama slaw and house-cut fries could make you a regular.
Likewise, the desserts. You'll be tempted to order two sweet cornmeal cakes with sweet corn gelato, juicy peaches and blueberries. The "taste of chocolate" stands out with a warm brownie, a little milkshake and a pot-de-creme, which you won't want to share. Profiteroles: heady with vanilla gelato, warm chocolate ganache and macerated strawberries. Macerated raspberries enrich the creamy cheesecake.
THE REST
The grilled, sliced strip steak is on the chewy side. Shrimp cocktail: standard. House-made gnocchi arrives pre-al dente. Penne, tossed with sweet Maryland crab, braised leeks and roasted corn - underseasoned.
THE BOTTOM LINE
In season.
- Peter M. Gianotti, 7/25/2008.
Hours: Dinner every day, from 5 p.m. Lunch, Monday to Friday and brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.