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Charlotte's Bistro

Bright yellow to goldenrod, depending on the slant of light, the dining room of Charlotte's Bistro opens like a sunburst on Main Street. It suits a tapas theme.

But this isn't home to the stirring flavors of southern Spain. The savory, small bites here are mainly New American and Asian, skillfully prepared and prettily presented by chef Dale Michishima, a veteran of Four Food Studio & Cocktail Lounge in Melville and Veritage, a departed star of Rockville Centre. The eatery is named for Charlotte Lisi, co-owner with Danny Pustobit.

A small glass vase holding a sunflower is on the dinner table. Palm leaves double as place mats. And, decorated with striking photos of horses, the new restaurant gallops in a direction very different from its sedate predecessor, Bedlam Street Fish & Clam Co. Diners also will remember the downtown address for the soup-and-sandwich lunches at the casual Wyland's Country Kitchen.

Midday, you still can go that route, though the soup may be a rich leek-and-potato number and the sandwich, an open-face chicken osso buco. Traditionalists, of course, can sample a grilled-chicken club or a burger.

Charlotte's Bistro has fun, however, with dinnertime "tasting trios." Some need to be fine-tuned. But they're definitely not dull. These themed plates are tasty and worth sharing.

The soothing "east" appetizer threesome includes smoked salmon tartare, salt-cured salmon with avocado relish and horseradish-truffle-crusted salmon. The "ceviche" group brings together sesame-seared tuna, diver scallops in a mango-Key lime marinade and tender hamachi in a soy marinade. A bit heartier is the "rustic," with a building block of braised short rib, banana-leaf wrapped pork and a mouthful of that mild chicken osso buco, with a plum tomato accent.

The "Pacific" brings in a plump oyster in a chile-horseradish vinaigrette, nuggets of lobster wrapped with ahi tuna and chewy octopus in a sweet marinade. There's more verve to the vegetarian combo starring potato confit, braised fennel and roasted tomatoes.

A special appetizer of prosciutto-wrapped ricotta with dots of pesto is very good. And satisfying salads start the meal, too. The red-and-yellow beet union rests on a broad paintbrush stroke of strawberry-beet juice, flanked by sections of orange and grapefruit, walnuts, Gorgonzola cheese and mache greens. Manchego cheese, fennel, endive and apples boost the baby spinach salad.

The larger plates are smaller than typical entrees. But the herb-crusted New Zealand rack of lamb and sliced New York sirloin in a merlot reduction would stand out in any size. Likewise, the seared ahi tuna and the short ribs.

But the sliced duck breast with sweet potato risotto is overcooked, and the pork braised in guava juice is surprisingly underseasoned. The "hot pot" of shellfish and chorizo gets its only hint of spice from the sausage.

Skip the singed apple galette and dry cheesecake in favor of the tangy Key lime half-moons and cupcake-size warm chocolate cake. Refreshing gelati and sorbets add some color, too.

If you dine alfresco, under the Acqua Panna umbrellas, wear sunglasses.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 5/16/08

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