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Ruvo

This is the second branch of Ruvo, and it has many of the same qualities as the Greenlawn original. Here, it has taken over the address long occupied by the Printers Devil in downtown Port Jefferson. The easygoing Italian menu covers a lot of territory. To start, sample the escarole and white bean soup and the fried calamari instead of the crab cakes with wasabi or the clams oreganata. Better pastas include the rigatoni Bolognese and penna alla vodka; trailing are the orecchiette tossed with fennel sausage and broccoli rabe and the linguine with clam sauce. Main courses are led by the herb-crusted rack of lamb with a tart cherry-and-Port wine sauce and the roasted chicken finished with lemon, garlic and rosemary.

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