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Pace's Steak House

Pace's Steak House, for more than 18 years beef central in Hauppauge, has a well-marbled offspring in Port Jefferson. It's a spirited place to meat and greet.

But, while the steaks are just as juicy as at the original, the newer restaurant is a little less consistent.

The style, however, is similar. The steak house theme plays out with dark wood, clubby warmth and some fine vintage photographs for seasoning.

Pace's is divided between restaurant and bar, and here there is the difference of Grand Canyon proportions. While you may have dinner in the bar area, the best advice is simple: Don't. It can be noisy, rushed and less than appealing unless you're on your third Scotch.

The dining room is considerably more restrained and fine for a well-paced meal. The service also improves significantly. And the spot has a festive quality, full of holiday decorations these days.

In addition to the straightforward menu, there are several specials each day. But the six main reasons to eat here are porterhouse, shell, marinated shell, filet mignon, petite filet and chopped steak.

The best-on-basics theory applies to appetizers, too. Satisfying onion soup, shrimp and crabmeat cocktails, tomatoes-and-onions and Caesar salad lead the way. And the house's version of oysters Rockefeller is tasty, as well.

But baked clams may arrive either en route to blackened or merely singed, and stuffed mushrooms just pasty. The seafood bisque needs more depth of flavor. The mozzarella-roasted peppers-basil combo defines ordinary.

Pace's isn't the ideal eatery for pasta, either. Cappelli prima.vera aren't exactly winter light; and the fettuccine Alfredo seems a long way from Rome.

So, get on with it.

The New York shell steak is crusty, fibrous, very good. The marinated version steers clear of all the usual pitfalls. It's recommended. Filet mignon, velvety and fine on its own, is even better with a mantle of Gorgonzola cheese. And the porterhouse for two is predictably grand.

Chopped steak is much more than a compromise choice, too. And the kitchen prepares thick, moist center-cut pork chops.

The expertly broiled lobster, two or three pounds worth, rivals the meats. But yellowfin tuna crusted with the now-customary coat of sesame seeds trails the swordfish cooked with white wine and olives.

On the side and, of course, a la carte, the garlicky mashed potatoes and sauteed onions are preferable to the greasy "crispy onions," bland creamed spinach, overdone home fries and underseasoned macaroni and cheese.

None of the desserts stands out, unless you're very devoted to pecan pie or ice cream. But that's not likely to be an issue. You always leave Pace's full.

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